#nobridge
My water is stored in a dark and cool food cellar that stays at 12-15°C (Below 60°F) all year round and in sanitized food-safe water containers. So far the water has had neither colouration, smell or taste after a year of storage.
The next bit is a citation from “Livsmedelsverket”, which is responsible for food safety in Sweden, and has been through a rough Google Translate because it’s too long for me to care to manually translate it. A link to the Swedish PM is found at the bottom.
TL;DR: In a biologically stable system (low carbon content in the water and limited possibility of utilization carbon from the material, there is really no upper limit to how long the water can last stored from a microbiological point of view. This according to microbiologists and risk assessors at the Swedish “Enheten för biologiska faror” (Unit for biological hazards).
Preface
This PM constitutes a scientific basis for microbiological risks during the growth of bacteria in water stored in a can for a long time.
The material has been produced to order by The unit for sustainable food consumption and will be the basis for advice on how how long a consumer can store water.
Responsible for the report’s content is Jakob Ottoson, microbiologist and risk assessor at the Unit for biological hazards.
The report has been fact-checked by Roland Lindqvist, senior microbiologist and risk assessor at the Unit for Biological Hazards.
The Swedish Food Agency
[…]
Risk characterization
Questions and answers
The US Centers for Disease Control (CDC) has a website on behavior and storage of drinking water in cans Creating and Storing an Emergency Water Supply
| water, Sanitation, & Hygiene-related Emergencies & and Outbreaks | Healthy Water | CDC. Make Water Safe During an Emergency (Print-only) (cdc.gov)
Among other things, it is stated that the water is replaced every six months and that the cans are sanitized with chlorine.
a. Evaluate whether the information on the CDC website is useful for Swedish conditions.
Answer: The short answer is yes, the information can be used under Swedish conditions.
However there is theoretically no upper limit to how long the water can be stored.
For example, specified a shelf life of 2 years in tetrapack and 12 months in bag in box on the water that was taken revealed in a pilot study (Livsmedelsverket 2024b).
The specified chlorine concentration for sanitization is large and not really necessary (see further below).
Of the potential pathogens frequently detected in drinking water systems (see Hazard Identification), including bottled water,
M. avium and A. hydrophila have the potential to infect humans via the gastrointestinal system.
However, there is no epidemiological connection that this has happened and the likelihood of illness following consumption of stored water is assessed as very low and limited to an immunocompromised population.
However, smell and taste can be affected by any microbiological growth.
In a biologically stable system (low carbon content in the water and limited possibility of utilization carbon from the material, there is really no upper limit to how long the water can last stored from a microbiological point of view.
[…]
What is the best way to clean the cans?
Answer: The best way is to rinse out of the can.
Any remaining stains that may be made up of biofilm is wiped or washed away in a way that prevents as much as possible that the material is scratched because this gives bacteria in the water a larger surface to attach to and new carbon sources may leak from the material.
If necessary, cleaning agents, e.g. hand washing detergent, used, but then it needs to be rinsed off thoroughly.
If necessary, the can can be disinfected with chlorine.
However, the latter is not necessary as there are no obvious ones microbiological hazards in the water if it is initially of drinking water quality that was filled into a pure dunk (see answer to question 1).
A certain excess of free chlorine can, however, extend the time to the build-up of new biofilm (Huang et al. 2020) but can also lead to unpleasant odors and taste of the water and the formation of harmful by-products such as trihalomethanes (Food Administration 2024a).
In case of recurring problems with visible growth, smell or taste within six months, however, sanitizing with chlorine, or buying a new storage container, can be one alternative.
A spice measure (one ml) of chlorine (12% chlorine by weight) in three liters of water gives a total content chlorine corresponding to 50 ppm.
The vessel should be rinsed out after the treatment (in about 30 minutes) and air dry before refilling with new water.
Citation from
Livsmedelsverket. Ottoson, J. 2024. PM 2024: Vatten på dunk - Riskvärdering. Livsmedelsverkets PM.
Uppsala.
PM 2024
ISSN 1104-7089
https://www.livsmedelsverket.se/globalassets/publikationsdatabas/pm/2024/pm-2024-vatten-pa-dunk-riskvardering.pdf
I try to always keep 30L to 50L of water safely stored in the food cellar.
If you store it properly it can stay safe and drinkable for years, I replace it about once a year though.
As someone who mixed his own vape fluids and slowly lowered the nicotine to ~1.8mg/ml and then went cold turkey first on nicotine and then also on vaping. The craving for a cigarette full of tar is still there once in a while when drinking or when completely stressed out.
Most of the time it’s my brain wanting “5 minutes of fresh air” while working on a problem or thinking back about a good time such as a beer, a smoke and good company during a backyard bbq. I can do those things without the nicotine, and I do.
It’s rare now though, especially compared to how it was when I was still vaping nicotine.
All those wives and girlfriends in denial even though the rape is documented with photos and video. Kudos to Gisèle for making the trial public.
In some cases they look for generic virtual hw devices, in other cases things like available cpu flags or BIOS version.
There are ways to hide it though:
https://github.com/zhaodice/qemu-anti-detection
https://forum.proxmox.com/threads/how-do-i-hide-the-fact-to-windows-that-it-runs-in-a-vm.115627/
After browsing through Subscribed/New I usually check out All/Top 12 hours and All/Active. If I still feel the need to doomscroll I might venture into All/New. My Subscribed list isn’t moving very fast…
It’s even easier to simply visit the community, if you aren’t subscribed you get a big nice block button in the sidebar.
No idea to be honest, been a long time since I ran Windows at home.
Can always use the Windows 10 LTSC 2021 iso to create the Windows To Go. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/evalcenter/download-windows-10-enterprise
Getting a proper license is gonna be impossible as a private consumer though, or well you can probably find someone selling the product keys online for cheap but that isn’t a real sales channel and it could suddenly become deactivated by Microsoft. I can find sites illegally selling them for as low as $14 when doing a quick search.
The real way to get the license is to sign up for their Volume Licensing Program.
Windows Enterprise LTSC is available in the per-user and per-device model, depending on the Volume Licensing program through which it’s acquired.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/whats-new/windows-licensing#windows-desktop-offerings-available-through-commercial-licensing
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/licensing/vlsc-faqs-home-page
Using Rufus (https://rufus.ie/en/) and a fast USB thumbdrive, such as Kingston DataTraveler Max - https://www.storagereview.com/review/kingston-datatraveler-max-review, you can make a “Windows To Go” installation.
Now you have a Windows install that you can boot directly from the thumbdrive when the need arise.
Perfect for booting up if your bios can’t updated directly from the usb drive and forces you into Windows, or to run that one software you can’t replace just yet and that refuses your attempts to run with wine.
Just make sure that it’s an ssd usb thumbdrive or it’s gonna be too slow to be any use.
Personally I’ve upvoted the replies as they keep a relevant and interesting discussion going.
I believe that both proprietary non-free systems and fully free systems can exist and that having licensing alternatives like GPL, LGPL and MIT gives the developer options for specifying how their software is to be used.
The movement towards using MIT or LGPL instead of the full GPL for libraries thus allowing the developers using the libraries the freedom to choose what license their software should use is one I can stand behind.
If someone builds a FLOSS turbotax competitor and don’t want anyone to use their hard work and fork it into a commercial and proprietary product then I believe there should be a license for that.
If they rather earn money from it and copyrights their code instead that is also their prerogative.
The middle-ground where they create a free turbotax competitor with a license that allows others to fork it into a proprietary software should also be possible - although I personally don’t see the allure.
That question is kind a rabbit hole and not one I feel confident in going down.
Free as in freedom, not as in free beer.
The real world implications of non-free software is that other’s can’t run, copy, distribute, study, change and improve the software.
I like having computing alternatives that are free from corporate control and believe that the hardliners like FSF helps us keep those alternatives alive. I realise that those alternatives are in many ways worse and that a lot of hardware today requires the vendor blobs to work. When/If corporations push their control even further I want those alternatives to be around.
And you really should pay for winrar. ;-)
Not in this case, the tests they’re running doesn’t need the vendor blobs in those testing folders.
Generally I agree with Debians changes to include nonfree firmware in the default images and making the “completely free” images the non-default version. I do think maintaining and having completely free distro versions to be a good thing though.
The whole situation is really unnecessary because none of the things that we’re testing really requires those vendor blobs.
We’re just testing the basic vboot and CBFS structures in those images, the file contents are not really relevant as long as they match the signatures.
So I think the easiest option here is to just remove the offending CBFS files from those images / overwrite the offending FMAP sections with zeroes.
In this case the binaries with the nonfree software seem be completely unnecessary, so why not keep it free?
They were put there for some testing and from their mailing list it sounds like it will be removed as it’s unnecessary.
Apologies that this has caused problems for you.
This is just some old test data used to confirm that the parser in the command line utility works, and I don’t think anyone thought about the redistribution legality implications of putting those images into the repo.
I agree that it’s not a good situation and we should try to fix it.
There is no real reason for these binaries to be in those test fixtures — the point of the tests is just to verify parsing for vboot data structures, the actual contents of the file are not really relevant.
edit: “there is a general advisory committee made up of any individuals who wish to help out and discuss their thoughts with the leadership board. This is done at bi-weekly meetings, which all members of the project are invited to attend and contribute.”
https://coreboot.org/leadership.html
Take a deep breath, make yourself a cup of tea and go through your notes for the exam. Ace the exam!
Then think about which lemmy server you want to start your new stardew valley community on and what your community rules should be.
The first thing to check is whether you can install your CAD software on a virtual machine with your current license. If you have good internet at home and already own a CAD machine then it might be easier to setup VPN access and remote control that machine for your Windows needs. Sunshine/Moonlight works good if you have the bandwidth for it.
Yeah, if there’s a full system failure without any backups and no option to get the system operational again then I would land in clone the drives before trying to restore data from them.